CENTERING THE MOST MARGINALIZED

Categories of Fat Access

Clothing

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Clothing is a complicated issue for virtually all fat people. Clothing manufacturers often opt to simply add inches to straight-sized patterns rather than create patterns for fat body shapes, resulting in garments that are poorly proportioned. Many fat people don’t have access to the clothing variety – casual, business, formalwear, uniforms – that other people have. Lack of access can be further compounded by class, location, and gender identity. Custom clothing or boutique specialty designer clothing is often cost-prohibitive, which has the impact of imposing a “fat tax.” Different areas of the U.S. and different countries have varying access to brick and mortar stores. Gender stereotypes often intersect with fat stereotypes so that, for example, fat masc clothing is feminized.

BRICK & MORTAR STORES

LEVEL DEFINITION
1, 2, 3 No brick and mortar stores carry clothing that fits
4
 Some brick and mortar stores carry clothing that fits
5
 Virtually all brick and mortar stores carry clothing that fits

CATEGORY LABELS

We refer to various categories of fat access based on the experience of how a person is impacted by anti-fat bias. Not all people are impacted by anti-fat bias equally. Fatter individuals experience more anti-fat bias and to represent this increase in experience we’re looking to find new category names to represent the levels of anti-fat bias different individuals receive.

LEVEL DEFINITION
Level 1 Inaccessibility
Level 2 Restricted Access
Level 3 Limited Access
Level 4 Basic Access
Level 5 Systemic Access

ONLINE STORES

LEVEL DEFINITION
1
 No online stores carry clothing that fits
2, 3
 Some online stores carry clothing that fits
4, 5
 Virtually all online stores carry clothing that fits

SHOES

LEVEL DEFINITION
1
 No or very few sellers carry shoes that fit
2, 3
 Some sellers carry shoes that fit
4, 5 Virtually all sellers carry shoes that fit

OPTIONS

LEVEL DEFINITION
1, 2
 No or very few sellers carry a diverse array of clothing options
3, 4
 Some sellers carry a diverse array of clothing options
5 Virtually all sellers carry a diverse array of clothing options

COST

LEVEL DEFINITION
1, 2, 3
 Clothing in the appropriate size is much more expensive
4
 Clothing in the appropriate size is more expensive
5 Clothing in the appropriate size is no more expensive

Feminine clothing from the perspective of someone who experiences Restricted Access

“Growing up as a fat femme, shopping was always a very stressful experience. I couldn’t shop in the same stores or sections as my friends. Luckily, I did wear a uniform in grade school and high school. I didn’t really start to figure out my own personal aesthetic until after college. It has involved a lot of trial and error to figure out sizing. I quickly learned that I needed to know my exact measurements so I could look at every product’s specific measurements. Women’s clothing has no standard sizing across brands or even within the same brand. I am limited to shopping online for most things, as there are very few brick and mortar stores that carry my size. Even brands that cater to higher extended sizes typically don’t carry their highest sizes in their brick and mortar stores. I have such a clear vision of how I would love for my personal style and aesthetic to look, and it is really hard knowing that I can’t achieve it because a lot of those pieces are just not created for someone with my body.”

Feminine clothing from the perspective of someone who experiences Systemic Access

“Shopping can be really fun. It can be a nice bonding experience to go out shopping for a special occasion with friends. I can feel confident that any store I walk in will have something that will fit me, even if sometimes particular items are not necessarily the best cut for my body shape. While affordability can be a concern for everyone, it is usually not difficult for me to find affordable clothing when I need it – especially since I am able to shop at thrift stores and consignment shops. Shopping is about finding pieces that express my personality and curating my personal style. I can typically find pieces that fit my desired look in my size when I want them. “

Masculine clothing from the perspective of someone who experiences Inaccessibility

“Buying clothes as a masculine presenting person who is a 1 on this scale is very expensive and limited. Clothes shopping requires a lot of planning around waiting for shipping or for backordered items that sell out quickly, as well as planning and saving money for the expense. There are almost no brick and mortar stores where I can walk in and find a piece of clothing that will fit my body. I am limited to online shopping of more casual styles and all the big and tall clothes are much more expensive than straight size clothes. Even online, the expense is much higher than smaller clothing. For example, a 3-pack of undershirts for S-XL costs about $10, while a 3-pack of undershirts for 5XL or 6XL costs about $70. A 5-pack of cotton tank undershirts costs about $25 for S-XL, while $103 for 5XL or 6XL. Meanwhile, these more costly clothes are often ill-fitting, because brands attempt to simply add inches to their straight size patterns, rather than expending the effort and money to hire fit models and design appropriate patterns for larger bodies.”

Masculine clothing from the perspective of someone who experiences Systemic Access

“Truthfully, I put very little to no thought into shopping for clothes, and have never had to. As someone with a pretty casual style comprised of mostly t-shirts and jeans, it has always been very easy for me to walk into just about any store, grab something in the same size I usually wear, and have it fit when I get home. The few occasions where I have needed to find something more formal or stylish for a special occasion, my only concerns were cost and finding something I like. I’ve never felt worried about waiting til the last minute because I knew I would not have trouble finding something in a brick and mortar store. Other people can often gift me clothes as well, and it is rare that an item does not fit.”